Check out this comparison. High Speed, High Torque Stepper motors are the standard motors on the printer. They are more powerful and faster then our competitors motors. Stepper motors are a resonant device, they are like a musical instrument that play notes as they're operating.
This is very evident when they draw circles as the motors will "sing". The frame amplifies the sounds, this is by no means loud, you can carry on a normal conversation and easily hear some body even if you are standing directly beside the printer when it is operating. However some people may find it annoying over time.
Vibration Dampers decouple the stepper motors from the frame so that the vibrations cannot carry through the printer and amplified. The result is a reduction of the volume of the sounds by 10 decibels. The Cool Muscle line of servo motors provide all the common components required for motion control embedded into the motor itself.
The seamless integration of both software and hardware components creates highly efficient motion modules and remove the problems associated with open loop steppers like skipped steps, electrical inefficiency, low max rpm's, and low resolution.
The Cool Muscle outperforms traditional servo and stepper systems by virtue of the controller's multiple closed feed-back loops with the driver and high resolution encoder while short wire lengths reduce susceptibility to EMI and noise. You do not need vibration dampers if you add the cool muscle motors because as near as we can tell they are perfectly silent.
Further testament to their excellent quality. This quick start kit is designed to keep your printer running at optimum levels, all the time. The kit includes the following:. We have additional nozzles for sale on our Accessories page that you can switch out as you please. Adding a professional printer set up to your order will result in an additional week added to the lead time. Each printer head can be fitted with different sized nozzles —.
Here is a close up shot of a 5 color model being 3D printed. Scott J Grunewald often writes about comics, pop culture, technology and social issues and has a keen interest in what happens when the needs of commerce, art and science inevitably intersect. Each service level includes all the lower levels i. L evel 1. During the multipoint inspection, a general checkup of the printer should be made. At a minimum, the following items should be checked:.
A micro drill bit also known as PCB drill bits in the correct size is required. Here are the sizes we supply in our Quick-Start Kits:.
Despite the name drill bit, you will not be using these in a drill at this point. You will only use them by hand. Push the nozzle as far into the nozzle tip as you can. Rotate the drill bit left and right, then remove and examine for any bits of filament or metal. Clean with a fine wire brush or steel wool. Repeat until you have cleaned as much as you can up to the maximum reach of your drill bit. This will remove any melted filament from the nozzle tip, returning it to proper working order.
Cleaning the filament feed gear teeth will prevent the possibility of the filament slipping, which can cause a print to fail. To clean the extruder drive gear follow these steps:. The filament feed tube ends will fray over time. Servicing the ends of the feed tubes occasionally will prevent them from shearing in the quick fittings during normal printer usage, which can damage the quick fittings.
To service the filament feed tubes, perform the following steps:. Replace each filament feed tube into its respective hot end and matching extruder. The bearing oil will require occasional reapplication. Follow these steps to apply fresh oil to the ball bearings:. During standard printing the oil will be wiped off the smooth shaft by the motion of the linear bearings. The oil will require occasional reapplication. Follow these steps to apply fresh oil to the smooth shafts:.
The oil will naturally flow downwards and coat the entire shaft and Z linear bearings. Caution: If any oil overspray reaches the bed, it may be required to replace your bed covering polyimide tape. Over time, the oil on the lead screws can become dirty. The oil can also flow down due to gravity, leaving the lead screws dry and un-lubricated. Periodic lubrication of the lead screws will keep the printer quiet and increase the accuracy of the Z movement.
To lubricate the lead screws, follow these steps:. Over time the tension of the belt may need to be adjusted. Belts naturally stretch over time and if left unadjusted may allow the belt to skip teeth on the pulleys, causing a print to fail.
To adjust the tension of the belts, follow these steps:. Periodically ORD Solutions will release an update to the firmware installed on your printer. Installing this firmware will help your printer run at its most efficient. To install the latest firmware follow these instructions:. Download the Xloader program, which will send the firmware to the printer.
It can be downloaded from here. Download the latest firmware files. Select the firmware file from your download location. Set the baud rate to The polyimide tape will wear out eventually. Even though the surface of the tape may be intact, the first layer of the prints may start to experience issues with sticking.
The best way to solve this problem is by periodically replacing the tape. To replace the bed tape, follow these steps:.
Remove the existing polyimide Kapton tape. Change nozzles. Through usage, the nozzles can accumulate deposits inside. Periodically replacing the nozzles will ensure that the printer is functioning at the highest efficiency. To replace the nozzles, perform the following steps:. Make sure the entire hot end is clear of filament. If necessary, disconnect the filament feed tube from the quick connect, heat the hot end to the melting point of the filament being used, and pull the filament up out of the barrel by hand.
Allow nozzle to cool completely. Carefully remove the insulation to expose the metal heater block. Avoid stretching the insulation covering, as this can cause the insulation to be loose when reinstalled. Grip the heating block with a 17mm wrench. Use a 6mm socket to loosen the nozzle while holding the heating block from rotating with the 17mm wrench.
Ensure that the heater block does not rotate at all, or the hot end can be damaged. The nozzle is a standard thread, so turn the nozzle clockwise if looking down on it, counter clockwise if looking up at it.
While the nozzle may be initially tight, once loosened it should remove easily. It may be required to heat the nozzle to the melting point of the filament being used, so that any filament remnants that may be preventing the nozzle from being removed are melted. Be extremely careful working around the hot ends when they are heated.
Screw in the new nozzle while continuing to hold the heating block from moving with the 17mm wrench. Tighten it firmly by hand. Once the new nozzle is installed, you will need to re-level it with the other nozzles.
Follow the instructions in this article. If your printer has been calibrated for multi-material printing, you will need to re-calibrate it. Follow the instructions in the Leveling Nozzles section. Over time the belts will stretch and wear. Eventually the belts will stretch to the point where the internal bands may break, causing the current print to fail.
To avoid this possibility, the belts should be replaced periodically. Remove the belt holder from the X-carriage. In order to remove the belt holder, it may be necessary to gently to flex the X-carriage up slightly, while applying slight pressure downwards on the red aluminum chassis. The belt holder should then rotate out from under the X-carriage. Pull the belt out of the belt holder. Press the new belt into the belt holder in the same orientation with the teeth towards the gap.
Replace the belt holder in the X-carriage. Replace and tighten the nuts on the belt holder. Route the belt around the idler bearings and stepper pulley. Tighten the X axis belt tensioner. Over time the fans can become clogged with accumulated dust. This will reduce their performance and eventually could result in the reduction of printing speed and electronic failure. There 3 fans on the printer: 1 on the radiator, 1 in the rear of the electronic case, and 1 under the left side extruder base plate heat sink.
To clean the fans, use a vacuum cleaner to vacuum the dust from the fan blades. During regular usage the balls from the linear bearings can create wear tracks in the smooth shafts. If the wear becomes excessive it can result in a reduction of precision and increase in printing noise. To avoid this, it is necessary to rotate the shafts periodically. There are 6 smooth shafts on the RoVa3D, 2 per axis, and there are two smooth shaft supports per shaft, for a total of Over time, the ball bearings can wear out.
Worn ball bearings may result in a reduction of printer precision and increase in printing noise. It is a good practice to replace the bearings periodically to avoid these issues. There are 14 ball bearings on the RoVa3D. Over time the linear bearings can wear out.
Worn linear bearings may result in a reduction of printer precision and increase in printing noise. The filament feed tubes need frequent servicing to ensure that the ends will not shear off in the quick releases during a print. Because the servicing cuts and shortens the filament feed tube, eventually the tubes will be too short to use and will need replacement.
To replace the filament feed tubes, follow these steps:. Remove the tube from the inlet lower port by loosening the hose clamp and pulling off the tube. If you are unable to remove it, the tube can be cut with tin snips. The piece remaining on the inlet can be scored with a knife, and removed.
Catch the used coolant in the container. Turn on the power supply, and allow the pump to push the coolant out into the container. When the coolant has stopped flowing there will always be a small amount remaining in the system , turn the power supply off. Continue slowly filling with coolant mix while the pump is running. Stop when the system will not accept any more coolant without overflowing. During normal use the hot-end ceramic heating elements will experience many heat up and cool down cycles.
Over time this may cause the insulators to degrade and if not replaced could lead to heater failure. In order to avoid this possibility it is required to periodically replace the ceramic heating elements in the hot-ends.
To replace the heating element please follow these steps:. Screw the heater block back onto the barrel until there is 1mm gap between the top of the heater block and the bottom of the copper cooling block. Route the wires back with the other heater wires and screw them into their respective terminals on the electronic board. Replace all the hot-ends insulation. Wrap the X carriage heater wires with the wire wrap. During normal use the bed heater will experience many heat up and cool down cycles.
In order to avoid this possibility it is required to periodically replace the silicone heating element under the print bed. Over time the smooth shaft can have grooves worn into them by the stainless steel linear ball bearings. Smooth shaft are in pairs by axis, meaning that each axis has 2 smooth shafts for a total of 6 smooth shafts. There are several reasons why the first layer may not stick.
Try these solutions one at a time:. If none of these things work, try a different filament spool, or even a different color. The quality of the print is highly dependent on the filament quality. If the filament feed strips for any reason it will need cleaning or the extruder will slip at random times during the print causing the print to fail or affecting the quality.
To clean the extruder drive gear after a filament strip, follow these steps:. If you have accidentally pulled a swollen piece of filament into the extruder body guide holes you may need to clear the blockage. To clear the blockage in the extruder filament guide holes follow these steps. Drill the bottom guide hole from the bottom of the extruder up. Stop drilling before the drill bit reaches the gear or damage to the drive gear may result. If you are experimenting with new Slic3r modifications or different filament materials you may encounter jamming of the hotend.
Sometimes the hotend may jam if you fail to cool the hotend after a print before you turn the power off. You can tell if the hotend is jammed by heating it up to operating temperature and attempting to pull the filament out of the hotend by hand. If you need to clear a jammed hotend follow these steps:. Sometime a nozzle can become plugged or jammed. The most common reason for this is leaving the hotend on for a long time while NOT printing. During this idle time the filament inside the nozzle may offgas and burn forming a black sludge that plugs the nozzle.
If you need to clear a jammed hotend then try these things:. Clear the jam by pushing some filament through the hot end manually. Heat the hot end up to operating temperature. Release the filament feed tube from the hot end quick release. Unscrew and remove the nozzle from the hotend. Insert the filament into the top of the hot end barrel. Push firmly until the blockage is dislodged. Clear the Jam using a drill bit.
Using a micro drill bit sized for the nozzle orifice you are attempting to clear, gently insert the drill bit into the nozzle orifice perfectly straight or you may break the drill bit. Gently twist the drill bit clockwise and counter clockwise to dislodge the debrit. Gently pull the drill bit out. Replace the nozzle See the Change Nozzles section. Warning: If you break the drill bit in the nozzle you will need to replace the nozzle!
If you experience a jammed hotend, the pressure build up in the filament feed tube may cause the tube to pop off one of the quick releases. If this happens you must perform maintenance on the printer otherwise it will happen repeatedly and possibly make it impossible for you to continue printing with the affected extruder. To repair the problem, follow these steps:. This can happened during shipping or if an incorrectly aligned optical stop tab strikes the optical sensor during a previous homing attempt.
To determine if you have a bad sensor and how to fix it please follow these steps:. To replace the sensor, remove the screws holding the sensor. Remove the electronic case cover. Trace the wires back to the electronic board while carefully cutting any zip ties holding the wires tied.
Current Stock:. They are more powerful and faster then our competitors motors. Stepper motors are a resonant device, they are like a musical instrument that play notes as they're operating. This is very evident when they draw circles as the motors will "sing". The frame amplifies the sounds, this is by no means loud, you can carry on a normal conversation and easily hear some body even if you are standing directly beside the printer when it is operating. However some people may find it annoying over time.
Vibration Dampers decouple the stepper motors from the frame so that the vibrations cannot carry through the printer and amplified. The result is a reduction of the volume of the sounds by 10 decibels. The Cool Muscle line of servo motors provide all the common components required for motion control embedded into the motor itself. The seamless integration of both software and hardware components creates highly efficient motion modules and remove the problems associated with open loop steppers like skipped steps, electrical inefficiency, low max rpm's, and low resolution.
The Cool Muscle outperforms traditional servo and stepper systems by virtue of the controller's multiple closed feed-back loops with the driver and high resolution encoder while short wire lengths reduce susceptibility to EMI and noise. You do not need vibration dampers if you add the cool muscle motors because as near as we can tell they are perfectly silent.
Further testament to their excellent quality. Below you can see the drop down menu with 7 choices:. Standard motor choice on the printers.
Users pay applicable shipping charges for warranty claims. Quick view.
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